Articles

Jan 15 2021

1965 Porsche 911

Author: Paintwerks

#300717

This car was purchased new in Salem, Oregon and has been in the area since. It has been off the road and in dry storage since 1981. It was then purchased in 2017 and brought to Wisconsin for restoration. This Porsche is highly original and in many ways it is in amazing condition. The original color is Signal Red; a lot of the original paint is still present such as inside the doors for example.

This 911 has never seen salt. The floor pans, back seat area and other areas that are often rusty are in remarkable condition.

The doors and deck lid are numbers matching and have 717 stamped into them. The rear bumpers have the number 720 stamped into them and have original signal red paint inside so I believe that the switch happened at the factory The seller learned that car #720 was and is blue. The front fenders and trunk lid have no numbers but appear to be original to the car. As of 3/1/2019 it has been determined that the front fenders are original. The numbers were found on the fenders and are shown in pictures below.

The interior vinyl is original and most of the carpet pieces are original. These will provide a good reference point in restoring the interior. The leather shift boot and emergency brake boots are original to this 911 and they are still nice as you will see in the pictures.

All of the glass is very nice and original. All of the pieces have the small sekurit (not sekurit-1) logos. The windshield is the original Sigla made in West Germany. I will attempt to polish the glass in an attempt to use all of it. We will see how the windshield turns out. Typically they are too far gone to be first rate. While all of the chrome trim is in remarkable condition, it will be redone to fit in with the rest of the restoration.

While the transmission is numbers matching, the engine is not. A ’65 motor did come with the car complete with Solex carbs and air cleaner.

This car also has the original spare wheel and tire, the original jack and a very nice original 1965 tool kit that is mostly complete.

The list of great details goes on. I will feature them in the pictures as this project continues.

: The first 11 pictures show the car as purchased.

: After going over every panel to check paint thickness, it proved to be a very original body.

: Only metal work had been done. There will need to be some cutting and reshaping done but no major rust repair.

: Everything will be completely stripped and worked from the ground up.

: The interior is in very good shape for its age.

: Everything was in great shape for reference during restoration.

: The wood dash appears to just need refinishing.

: If the body still had its original paint it would have been great to keep it as a survivor.

: This is an original aluminum rim wheel.

: The gauges will be completely restored.

: It is very hard to find a car like this.

: Rare original shift and parking brake boots. These will come back to life and have great patina. Look for these on every ’65 that is for sale.

: The original sound deadening/backing. So far there is no rust anywhere.

: The original engine grill.

: Very nice sun visors.

: Even the heater vents are in good shape.

: The original outside mirror.

: The fuel tank clamps look like they are ready to install. They just needed some cleaning.

: The VIN on the engine lid.

: The VIN on both doors.

: And of course the chassis.

: Currently the fuel tank will be used as is. The tar like area currently is not being reproduced. You can still see markings that have been transferred from the spare tire.

: The front “J” tubes are in great shape. They will be blasted before paint which will help detrermine just how solid they really are.

: While the horns look good, neither one worked. With just a little time they are both working perfect.

: There are some body fit issues. This was off by 5mm when I first saw the car. Someone put a door skin on without having the car to check the fit.

: Here is another replacement part problem. Replacements always have some sort of fit issue. The holes for the chrome trim strip are too far from the window. Once the holes are moved, the body line on the door is in the wrong place. That will all be fixed.

: With a little work, the door is lining up beautifully.

: The next 4 pictures show how the engine hood fits and after some hammer and dollie work..

: Here is after.

: The panels typically fit very nice but were never perfect from the factory.

: The hood fits very nice all the way around now.

: The floor pan usually sees some dents from trying to jack it up in the wrong place.

: The seam has been pulled down. There is still a little work to do on the sheetmetal itself.

: The fenders did not have rust in some of the usual places but did on the inside of the fender. This is an odd place to be so bad.

: It now needs a light skim coat to be perfectly smoothed out.

: After all the priming and sanding processes, it is perfect. Sadly, the picture does not quite show how nice it is.

: The fender mounting holes are a common area of rust. This area was cut out and replaced with metal from a donor fender.

: A previous repair on the trunk hood.

: After the metal was cut out and replaced.

: The beginning of fitting the whole front end.

: Besides the holes you can see the bodyline over the directional is bad.

: Once the bad section is removed, the light bucket needs to be moved to get the headlight to fit correctly.

: It sits tight on the other side.

: The fender is bent back down to meet the light.

: With quite a bit of effort, the headlight bucket has been moved forward and fits well.

: Another section of metal from a donor fender is used to repair the damaged area.

: Careful grinding and hammer work results in nice flat seams.

: Final bodywork will be done after the fenders come back from E-coating.

: The drivers side only had issues with the horn grill holes.

: The doors are very solid. It was a surprise to find these holes.

: With the new panel it will be good as new. The doors will also go out for dipping and E-coat.

: This is the drivers side door. This previous repair was not done well enough.

: You can see how far it needs to go in.

: The door is adjusted and fit with the original untouched sections of the body.

: The old welds are cut out. The top welds were not holding which made freeing it up nice and easy.

: Sadly this picture is a little blurry. After moving everything in, repair pieces were made and welded in place. After grinding the welds, it looked like new.

: There will need to be some filler used where the factory used lead on the seam.

: A few views of the final fit.

: The door is fitting very well.

: The seam was rewelded and hammered flat. A minimal amount of filler will be needed.

: It is great to have proper early fenders on this car. They fit pretty well.

: It is odd that they do not fit quite right. Here the door fit is pretty good, a little out at the bottom.

: Here are the mounting holes. There is no way these fit as is. These cars always need a lot of hand fitting.

: I could not believe these were numbers matching fenders with how they fit. But the numbers prove it.

: To see the numbers I had to take several pictures until the reflection was right. I could not see these at all before E-coating.

: After reshaping the rear bumper to fit, there was still a problem with the rubber trim fitting correctly. The tailight housing is pushed in by almost 1/2″. The vertical piece on top is supposed to be on the opposite side of the lower vertical section.

: Here is the evidence of some sort of repair and plenty of rust.

: The new housing being fitted. Both bumpers and the center panel will be fit before any final welding.

: The whole rear assembly is mounted to ensure that everything fits as it should.

: This area was typically finished in lead after it was assembled. I will be using a lead substitute.

: One new aftermarket rocker has been used but the drain holes are shaped wrong and need to be put in the correct place.

: The correct drain holes. After some finishing they will look great.

: Here is the passenger side rear quarter repair.

: With this being done, the major metal work is complete. There are some small areas that need to be addressed. Now the doors and fenders will go to E-coating.

: The small hole started as a 1/16″ diameter until I touched it. Lead typically has rust working its way underneath it.

: With the lead removed, you can see more metal rusting away as predicted. This is a common area for rust on these cars.

: Padding of some sort was pushed in this cavity from the inside for sound deadening I presume. The padding held moisture and that is the start of the rusting process.

: The lower area where the padding was sitting is also rusted away.

: Using two repair panels the repair is complete.

: The whole area is cleaned, chemically treated and undercoated before closing it up.

: A repair panel is formed to replace the damaged area.

: The repair panel is in place with the welds ground down. Surprisingly, the other side is very solid. The padding was removed and the area cleaned up just fine. Heavy prodding from the outside showed no weak areas.

: A few dents in the floor were under the tunnel and were not accessible. With a tab welded on, it can be pulled with the clamp. This technique was used in several positions to pull it all down correctly.

: While removing the few remaining pieces from the car I came across the accelerator rod and boot. Under 53 years of dirt and grease, revealed a virtually mint condition boot. I don’t believe you can buy them in this color.

: In prepping the dash for paint, these runs were discovered on the glove box door. This flaw will remain so it is exactly as it left the factory. Nothing is perfect.

: The floors were cleaned and chemically treat before refinishing them. This also holds any loose dust down while painting the dash.

: The dash is prepped and masked.

: Ready to go.

: This is the first of several rounds of black for all of the miscellaneous parts.

: A nice smooth semi-gloss black like the factory. E-coating is not typically done on restorations due to the fact that the gloss and surface finish cannot be controlled as well.

: While waiting for the doors and fenders to come back from E-coating, things like the steering rack are cleaned and prepped to go back in the car. New boots, rubber, paint and tie rod ends.

: This is the front A arm. Two holes were opened up under the sway bar mounts. No idea why.

: After welding, both the mount and ball joint arm are test fit. Ready for blasting and paint.

: The rear suspension swing arms get grooves in them when the rubber bushing is completely worn out.

: After welding and grinding they are good as new. Better high quality bushings will be put in to alleviate this problem.

: With the parts back from E-coating, the bodywork is complete and it is time for primer. Black epoxy is first.

: A high build poly primer is next. Each layer is in a contrasting color where possible to make it very easy to tell how far you have sanded later on. A guide coat in red is applied next.

: While the primer is drying, it’s time for one last detail on the trunk lid. The front trunk lid buffer mounts were damaged on both sides.

: The whole area is cut out and replaced.

: After drilling a new hole and shaping the opening, it is as good as new.

: After hours of block sanding, the body is ready for paint.

: This is my color match to an original surviving ’65. This sample also matched several 356’s I have done in Signal Red.

: Doors, lids and fenders in base coat waiting for clear.

: The body in color and clear.

: After the paint cures for a few days, the body was completely masked off for undercoating.

: The gloss of the undercoating was duplicated when it was all painted. Painting the undercoating makes it easier to maintain this clean look.

: The same process is done on the front fenders as well.

: Now it is in the process of block sanding the clear starting at 800 grit.

: The gauges are back from restoration.

: Everything is perfect.

: It looks at least as good as new.

: Notes were taken on each gauge.

: Each gauge is then stamped as it was originally.

: Pictures were taken of each gauge before they were sent out.

: With the trunk and drip rail masked off, final sanding and polishing can begin.

: The paint is beautiful.

: Reassembling begins with putting the ID tags back on.

: The wiring harness, wiper mechanism and related parts start going back together.

: An original windshield washer bag before being installed to never be seen again.

: Original tailights after just a little polishing.

: Almost brand new.

: The carburators fresh from restoration.

: Pre-run and absolutely like new.

: Front calipers freshened up and ready for assembly.

: Rear calipers ready for assembly.

: Ready for mounting.

: Someone painted the grill all black at one point. It will be fully cleaned, polished and repaired as needed. Eight new mounting studs are being made.

: Ready to be assembled.

: It came out beautiful.

: Nice and straight.

: The 3 VIN numbers stamped on the engine hood. It will be very hard to see with the grill in place.

: The grill mocked up with the emblems in place.

: Clean detail.

: It is hard to capture just how geat it looks.

: The front suspension, ready to go on.

: Ready for a final check and brake bleeding.

: The rear suspension ready to go.

: Everything replated and working like new.

: The parking brake and heater valves adjusted and ready for use.

: The original Webasto heater is almost completely done.

: The original wood dash pieces refinished and ready to go in with the interior.

: The dash top was beautifully redone by Auto’s Int’l. Once installed, I was able to put all of the gauges in. Every light was tested before going in.

: The earliest cars are known for their four hole dashes, but there are really five with the one on the passenger side top often being overlooked.

: The exhaust system for the Webasto heater.

: Now the heater is done. All of the clamps and hoses are in place.

: With the smugglers box door on, the trunk is done for now. The fuel tank will stay out until the end. It is so much easier to work in the trunk if you can stand inside of it.

: In preparation for the front fenders, the headlight buckets needed paint. This is the match from a very clean original section. The dot on the left is the final mix. It is perfect.

: The oil tank in place. Now the rear bumpers can go on.

: The back is ready to go.

: The front fenders are mounted, but the vertical area by the door will be adjusted after the doors go on for perfect panel alignment.

: The early cars used vinyl from the interior for the fender welting.

: Using an original as the sample, I made new welting. This picture shows the detail of how Porsche finished the edge of it even though it was not likely to be noticed.

: The front end is done. Electrical testing comes next. The lights and horns have all been tested before being installed.

: The original crest.

: With the interior almost done, the carpet is fit and the snaps installed. The rear seat skirts are being remade from the original ones that were removed. Once installed, pictures of the completed rear seats and parcel shelf will be included.

: The floor carpeting will then be removed to keep it clean until the car is completely done and ready for delivery.

: The 911 emblem is the original one with the longer pin spacing. The original Porsche emblem could not be used but we have it.

: The black detail behind the grill.

: This car still has the rare, taller 20mm grill.

: Finally, the wipers, mirrors and sun visors can go on to give it a finished look.

: The interior is shaping up nicely.

: The knee pad and the original wood dash. The picture does not do it justice.

: The finished door with hand painted black edging just like factory.

: The factory glued the vapor barrier to the door card originally. So the new panel was done the same. Later years the barrier was glued to the door itself.

: The engine has been test run and is ready to go in.

: With the sheetmetal on, the transmission is bolted to the engine and filled with oil.

: The motor is in and fired right up.

: With the ride height set and test drives done, the torsion bar covers can go on. Backed with headliner material just like the factory.

: This is the very rare cover over the wiper mechanism and gauges.

: Finished and delivered.

Jan 10 2021

1965 911 #301074

Author: evh-admin

This is a shop project that will take some time to complete. This will be done between all of the client cars that are lined up. As you will see, this car will be done as accurate as I can do it. The one exception is that the current plan is to keep the 1967 S motor that was in it sometime before 1980. It is a complete running motor. I spoke with the owner who bought it off of a corner car lot in Boulder Co. in 1980. It was still in its original blue paint. It remained in his circle of family and friends until about 2008 when it was sold to a local collector. The condition it was in at that time is the same as when I bought it. Most of the original parts were still with the car. Otherwise I am finding NOS or excellent used pieces.

Follow all of the details in the captions for each picture. Original paint matching is being done on every possible detail. My paint supplier loves to see me walk in with yet another special request.

If you are reading this and have any parts that are unique to these early cars, please contact me to discuss them. There are some parts that are almost impossible to find. Any help is appreciated.

(Click on any of the images to view larger images of the entire project.)

: This is the first time I saw it.

: Five days later it wasn’t for sale.

: About 1 1/2 years later, after constantly reminding the seller I wanted it. It came up for sale.

: I tested it for strength right away.

: Not a creak out of either side.

: Original parking brake and shift boot. I am consistently working them. They are getting nice and soft now.

: Original blue paint found on the door jamb for color matching.

: This is the only foolish thing found on the car. A speaker hole in the rear wheel well.

: The ID plate was never removed.

: After complete disassembly, fitting panels was next. A paint gauge was used to be sure we weren’t looking at large amounts of body filler.

: Initial fitting was done with paint on most panels due to the time between work sessions on it. No need to let it rust.

: All small parts are used as fill in jobs during the process.

: The wire conduit was just hanging when I got it.

: The original tube was still very usable.

: The repair was made in about 5 pieces.

: The doors and trunk lid were stripped and e-coated.

: Mocking up the front end. A new bumper and fenders were sourced from Porsche. The rust and damage was too extensive to be worth repairing.

: Now the whole body was chemically stripped.

: Overall I am happy with how solid it is. Metal repairs were needed but nothing like others I’ve done.

: The usual front suspension pan repair was needed.

: A few small areas in the floor.

: More time was spent with a hammer and dollie on the floor to remove dents.

: This jack tube was removed to make it look right. It was plenty strong.

: Another of the common areas of concern. Much easier repair than a whole floor.

: I always find it interesting that one side can be rock solid and the other one is rusty.

: The drivers side looks like new.

: After metal work was completed, it went back for E-coating.

: The seam for the rocker panel is at the top of the outside surface to keep the original top panel of the rocker. Reproductions are good, but they are not the same. We try to keep every detail we can.

: It is in the first round of primer. It will come back in 5-6 months when there may be some more time for it.

: Pain staking paint mixing to get just the right color with a mat finish. This picture is with a flash.

: Without a flash. The color is different if it has a gloss finish.

: Paint was mixed just for the wiper rods. The frame was a combination of two silvers to get the color right.

: Metal parts were blasted, tumbled, Zinc coated and a direct to metal clear for very long term protection.

: The original tank was chemically stripped and the dents in the bottom worked out as possible. It came out very good. Original paint was matched before chemically stripping and sealing it. After additional detail work, it is primed and painted.

: It is finally in its original Golf Blue. It hasn’t been this color since somewhere in the late 80’s.

: After a week of drying, it is masked and undercoated all over. The undercoating is painted to make it easier to keep clean.

: Now it has been wetsanded with the first two grits in the sanding process. After at least 3-4 weeks of drying, it will get two more rounds of sanding and a three step polishing process.

: This is the glove box door. The original blue can be seen under the black. The bodies were painted in color and then they went back and did the black as needed.

: Only the early cars have this area blacked out. Into ’67 somewhere. And even then it could be hit or miss with different/darker colors. There was no clear pattern as time went on.

: After weeks of drying, two more rounds of sanding and it is ready for polishing.

: It polished very well. I think it is a grerat color.

: Assembly starts with the wiring.

: After all of the work to make the wiper system perfect, it will virtually never be seen again.

: The view before the dash pad goes on.

: The steering rack is prepped to go in.

: A complete rebuild of the calipers.

: Ready to install.

: The front suspension is in. Many people paint the struts Koni orange but Koni’s were not available in ’65 for 911’s. Boge and the part numbers are also stamped right on them.

: The original dashpad just came back. It’s beautiful.

: Excellent detail.

: Everything with a date code has been checked and documented.

: With the suspension done, the body can be assembled.

: It starts to look like a car again.

: This is a sound deadening and heat reflecting pad from Cascade Audio Engineering. It will work much better than the 3/4″ foam pad that was there.

: With the body fully assembled, it is now waiting for the headliner and then the dash can be done.

: With the headliner in place and the “A”&”B” pillars covered, the dash can go in.

: This piece of black vinyl was glued to the dash from the factory. Presumably to stop noise from the dashpad. It’s an authentic touch.

: The original metal dash frame was in great shape and was recovered. It looks great!

: With the gauges in, it starts to look more and more complete. The electrical system can now be tested.

: Over time small things have been done. More chrome is being done.

: The Webasto heater is mounted with just a few details to finish.

: The muffler and pipe were blasted and painted with quality catalized paint for great durability.

: With the heater in place, the muffler and pipe can be installed.

: Even the window regulators have date codes.

: Dated 3/65. a little hard to see.

: Even mounted with the original large washers from new.

: The original horsehair pad on the rear seat hump was retained due to its excellent condition.

: The shape came out perfect.

: The rear is coming along great. I love the color combo.

: The vapor barrier is glued to the door card like was done originally. Later cars had it attached to the door.

: The engine grill was completely disassembled, cleaned, painted and polished before reassembly.

: The engine is in process. The fan, carbs, distributor and fan shroud are all ready to go.

: Restored by Paul Abbott at Performance Oriented.

: The air cleaner is ready, just add an engine.

: The case is going together.

: Ready for the carbs and transmission.

: Ready to go in.

: The hub caps go on when it is officially ready for a road trip.

Dec 18 2020

1963 Porsche 356

Author: Paintwerks

This is one of the best midwest cars I have seen. It has one repaint over original paint and very little bodywork based on paint meter readings. This will be stripped to bare metal and repainted.

( Update) After the paint was removed it showed that all the original paint was removed last time it was painted.

: The car was completely stripped before the maroon paint went on last time.

: Stripping the paint off shows a very straight body. Some dings and waves but solid.

: A ding at the top right of the hood and another just below the grills.

: Remnants of the primer for some secondary sanding. The three bare spots are where filler was found.

: The leading edge had filler but the surface is in perfect condition. There is no indication why filler was there.

: The front bumper had an odd arc to it. After stripping the paint, a previous repair was found. It was brazed back together with the bumper shaped incorrectly. It is tacked in place waiting to have the fit checked before final repairs are made.

: The floor has had different sound deadening in it. It has been removed showing a solid floor underneath.

: A very nice solid floor is underneath.

: This lead joint was sanded down to check for problems due to a blemish in the paint. It is completely solid.

: This is a small repair that had been done with the last paint job. It is completely intact.

: The next three pictures document the condition on the original metal.

: It is all very solid.

: Here is the finished door gap.

: This is the front door gap.

: Before the radius on the leading edge of the door is done, there is almost no clearance between the door and the body.

: The paper is .004″ thick. That is how tight it is at the moment. The radius will provide clearance to add paint to the surfaces.

: Only enough filler is used to make the panel straight.

: The trailing edge of the door was hammered to match the rear quarter panel.

: Great hood fit in bare metal.

: Two small dings that can’t be removed are the only areas needing any filler.

: Prepped for primer.

: Ready for primer. Very little filler needed.

: This car is very solid throughout.

: Epoxy primer.

: Hi build primer and guide coat.

: Original paint behind the original VIN badge.

: I found original trim rings in my stash.

: Original Hella tags are still on the back.

: Assembled with new glass, the lights mount perfectly.

: A nice tight seal against the body.

: The lights also have the original slotted mounting screws not currently available.

: This is the second round of primer after the initial blocking.

: The dash gets painted and covered before the outside is done.

: Doors and lids go into color.

: I first jamb the car. With a smaller spray pattern I spray the details and difficult areas.

: After tacking the body off one more time, color is sprayed. This picture shows it after the clear has been sprayed.

: Color sanding before final wetsand and buffing.

: 3 step compounding and polish complete.

: The color without a flash.

: Assembly well under way.

: Another shot without the flash washing it out.

: Dash together and ready.

: The details no one sees. Headliner material was used as gasket material behind the torsion bar covers.

: The completed headliner.

Dec 15 2020

1972 Porsche 911T

Author: Paintwerks

This car will be going back to its original silver color. We will be making a few changes along the way, but nothing that can not be easily put back to stock.

: Aside from the front fenders, the car looks good from here. After disassembly and stripping we will see just what we have.

: The unique ’72 only oil door. The gap on this is larger than the fuel door. This is how it left the factory.

: The front fenders and front bumper are trashed. New ones will be sourced and fit to the body.

: Silicone sealant was used to seal the joint from the inside of the fender. Water then came down through the top side and puddled in the seam causing it all to rust.

: Both fender joining panels have rust holes and will be replaced.

: Initially this side of the front window channel looked better. It was a previous repair that was hiding its real condition.

: This is the front window corner. It is common to see at least some degree of rust here. This is a little worse than some. A repair panel will be bought to help facilitate this repair. The wires for the sunroof run through this area so they had to be fished back through here before any welding begins.

: I cut away metal until I find something solid to work with.

: The structure underneath is made and coated with a copper weld-thru primer.

: This small section was cut from a larger replacement panel. It fits in pretty well. After wleding, the sunroof wires are then pulled back through and tested.

: This is the largest patch on the car. We will remove this and make an appropriate panel section and butt weld it in.

: The parcel shelf is interesting. Usually the window leaks, water collects in the upholstery and rusts out the panel. Look at the window channel and you will see no rust whatsoever. Where did all of the water come from? As a result of all of the water, one seat bottom is a little rusty requiring some repair.

: After all of the spot welds are drilled out, it comes out in one piece.

: The new one should fit right in.

: The replacement panel did fit in pretty well. Great care must be taken before any final welding to insure the engine hood hinge mounts are in the right place.

: The final sheet metal sections were formed in two pieces and spot welded in place.

: The hydraulic support mount and hinge mounts are used from the original parcel shelf.

: This shows the lip that holds the front seal. This is the easiest piece on the car to replace.

: Except for the 50 spot welds that were put in.

: The new strip is in place.

: The right heater control valve is rusted out. As you can see, the left one is missing altogether.

: This is the right rear seat area. The rust is mostly in the backrest area. A full replacement panel will not be needed. This section can be repaired with just a few fabricated panels.

: The trunk lid had a lot of body filler on it. After stripping, it shows just a few holes to be welded closed and very minimal filler will be needed for some deep sanding scratches. Excessive filler from past repairs seems to be very common.

: The area for the hood buffer is the only rusted area.

: I had the perfect piece from another donor hood.

: The front suspension pan is always the first thing to go.

: The main pan is trimmed to fit and welded in.

: Here the gas tank support is laid in place to check the fit before the structure underneath is rebuilt.

: This area becomes a boxed structure underneath the gas tank support. Both sides needed to be rebuilt.

: Both sides are done and waiting for the gas tank support panel.

: This goes through to the inside of the smugglers box.

: It becomes a fairly large hole before good metal is found.

: Forming two pieces of steel repairs the hole nicely.

: The drivers side quarter has a strange repair on it.

: I can not figure out what could have happened. We will cut out all of the deformed metal and butt weld a panel in.

: Many 911’s have had some one jack them up in the wrong spot.

: With the outer rocker removed, you can see how well the jack point has been preserved. Only a few very small holes were in the bottom. Much larger areas have been cut away to insure only good metal remains.

: With the pinch weld straightened, the multiple layers have been replaced to be good as new.

: This area of the replacement engine hood was bent a little. It is easier to remove it and bend it into shape, then weld it back in. It is hard to see how bad it is.

: After hammer and dollie work, it is easier to see the straight lines around the light area.

: The pedal cluster area was rusty but very few tiny holes.

: I used a new floor section to make it 100% solid again.

: With the pedal support plate on underneath, it is ready for seam sealing.

: This is the drivers side jack point after removing the rusted areas.

: Here the floor pan and pinch weld areas are redone.

: Here the jack point is in place along with the chassis support to the right.

: Because this supplier has vastly improved their rocker panel stamping, it is easier to replace the whole panel compared to past pieces that were available.

: This area on the passemger side was bad behind the rocker even though the rocker looked ok.

: A hinge post bottom was made to replace the rusted section. This time it was more cost effective than buying a replacement part.

: The next two pictures show some of the fit issues with new replacement parts. This is better than eliminating and repairing rust, but they do not bolt right on.

: This problem was easier to fix than some. In the end I got it to fit just fine. The other side needed a lot more work to line up.

: The joining panel must be in just the right place both up and down as well as forward and back.

: With the joining panel in the correct position, the door gap looks great. With the door fit to the body, the fender fit to the body, door and trunk lid, the rocker panel can now go on to fit the body, door and fender.

: The fender is not bolted in its final position on the bottom but it will line up perfectly.

: The fender edge was not straight from the manufacturer. After I cut and moved it, I now have a proper panel gap. The headlights are also fit at this stage to get them to seat properly.

: The fender sits high here. This is the last area to be modified to fit.

: The fender had to be cut to lower the top surface down closer to the body.

: The body then needed metal to be added to bring it the rest of the way up to meet the fender.

: The passenger side only needed the fender to come down.

: Metal was added to both surfaces to get the gap size and shape correct.

: The rubber seal must be used throughout the fitting process because it affects the door gap.

: This is the stock gas door fit. With everything in black, the camera does not show just how bad it fits.

: This is the lower gap. Too big to let it go.

: The gap to the left is good.

: The gap to the right is good.

: The top gap is also too big.

: This shows the best fit I could get in stock form.

: Apparently this is hand done. This too will be corrected.

: A rod was welded on the areas needing more material. It was then ground to suit. Once again the camera does not show quite how good it is now.

: The bottom gap.

: The top gap.

: Before each rocker panel goes on, it is painted on the inside of the replacement panel and the body. The gold color is a weld through primer. After final paint. this cavity will get sprayed with another round of corrsion protection with a special spray nozzle.

: With the drivers side rocker panel in place, the rear quarter needs to be attached.

: First the curve to match the door is made. The rust at the very bottom of the quarter panel will be repaired at this time too.

: After matching the curve of the body, the repair panel cut be cut to size.

: Cut the old metal away and weld in the new piece.

: The fenders now fit the body and the door very well.

: The door has been tweeked to fit the quarter perfectly.

: The passenger side fit.

: The rocker work is done with the door untouched from original. This way everything is fit together as it should be.

: A look at the body lines from the rear.

: First the taillight support is mocked up. The taillight is fit throughout the process to be sure everything fits and looks correct.

: All pieces are only tacked in place for easy removal if needed.

: The new panel butt welded in place.

: Some fitting and finishing are needed yet but it is starting to look like new.

: This is where there was a big ugly patch. It was hammered down too far with no way to hammer it back up. A larger section was cut out to get to clean straight metal.

: It really matches the shape very well.

: A little hammer work and it is ready for finishing.

: The factory oil fill door has a larger gap around it than the fuel door. It will not be altered. This is factory correct. It is also some aluminum alloy. If allowed to swing open when released, the hinge has a tendency to break. This has been beautifully welded by a tool welding specialist.

: This door fits very well. A small shim was added to make it fit perfectly.

: Even though the bumper is new, it must be test fitted. Just some small alterations are needed. Note how the fitting is done with a rubber gasket in place to be sure we are in the ballpark.

: The exhaust opening in the rear bumper was clearly modified. Fortunately the right side was still in place.

: First metal was added to close the opening.

: Then it is cut to size.

: The inside lip is added and ground to size. The other bumper on the table was used as a pattern.

: Stainless steel oil tubes were made to replace the rusted out steel ones.

: The “S” trim is fit before any priming is done.

: A little clearance is added.

: The reproduction bumper trim fits terrible so these originals are sanded and polished back to life.

: There are still some tiny marks in them but you must look very close.

: I never get tired of seeing a project go into primer.

: The steering rack is in good shape. It just needed new turbo tie rods and boots and it is ready to install.

: While in primer, the deco fit is checked. Fits great!!

: Careful masking is required when components are left intact. It is also required to prevent overspray from getting everywhere.

: Undercoating is done to blend in the repaired areas.

: Everything is epoxied and painted.

: With this picture I am trying to show how fine the metallic is in this silver. It looks very original.

: All the major panels are done at once. The engine lid was laid flat for the final color coats to insure the color laid the same as adjacent panels when mounted on the body.

: Gun settings, temperature and humidity are all noted to insure consistency.

: Before polishing, bumpers and fenders are masked off for undercoating.

: After the undercoating is dry, epoxy primer and color are sprayed to give it an original look.

: While the paint is drying, subassemblies are worked on.

: Disassembled, blasted and reassembled. Ready to to be installed.

: After sanding with 2000 grit, a 3 step polishing process is done.

: With satin black on the letters, they are ready to go on.

: Almost ready to assemble. With a few more parts and freshly plated fasteners, we are ready to install.

: The front rubber bushings are replaced with Elephant Racing spherical bushings. No play and completely free movement.

: With the suspension mounted, the front fenders can go on.

: The headliner went in flawlessly.

: From every angle it is perfect.

: With the fenders on, it starts to look like a car again.

: The rear suspension is on, parking brake adjusted and heater valves operational.

: With a new wiring harness for the engine lid made, the hood can go on.

: After the Dynamat, the interior can start going in.

: The dash material has been replaced and knee pad installed. The key surround will be cleaned up or replaced as well.

: The aluminum plate was removed to prevent it from rubbing on the knee pad as it came from the factory.

: The speaker, dash pad and gauges are ready to go. All of the gauge lights have been replaced with LED bulbs.

: With the trunk lid mounted, the car really takes shape.

: The interior is done for now.

: After the windows are installed, the seats and carpets will go in.

: After the shift housing is ready and the shift rod bushing is replaced, it will be installed and the carpet glued in.

: With the gas tank in, the trunk is done.

: A new set of perlon carpet and it looks like new.

: With the back window in, the rear seats are finished along with new seat belts.

: With the glass and rear seats done, the front seats, belts and steering wheel can go in.

: The engine bay, waiting for the motor to go in.

: The back comes together with the bumpers, guards and license plate panel on.

: At this time it is ready to go get the engine.

: When it returns with the engine, the rocker trim and door panels will go on. Then it is time to drive it.

: Engine complete and ready for the drive home.

Sep 14 2020

1969 Porsche 911

Author: evh-admin

This 1969 911 is my personal project. It started out as an idea when I was laid up for two weeks from some minor surgery. Two weeks of car magazines can really get you thinking. In fall I was encouraged to call on a car I saw for sale. My wife knew what would happen if I made one call. A few weeks later I found one worth buying. Talking with the owner and seeing it had thirty year old paint on it, I gambled that it would be a solid car. It had almost no visible rust. Ultimately, almost everything but the body, steering rack and wiring harness were replaced.

What follows is the REAL cost of healthcare. I’ve never felt better.

(Click on any image below to view larger size.)

: This is the first time I get to see the car in person.

: It runs. That’s a good start.

: It’s all there.

: This is the condition of the wheel wells.

: Very solid and rust free.

: Even the trunk looked great. No metal repairs needed.

: It’s beginning to look like the gamble paid off.

: Upon stripping the car, I was happy to see the seat bottoms and parcel shelf are intact.

: The factory lead at the jack point is one of the causes of rust there. Looks great and have been very usable.

: Again, no corrosion problems around the lead. The surface rust on the quarter was cleaned up very easily.

: Nice straight panels after media blasting.

: Minimal deviations to be smoothed out.

: The floor was prepped and coated with bed liner for a tough durable finish.

: Due to the shop being full with customer projects, this needed to be done at home. Duct tape had to suffice for mocking up until I could bring Cleco’s home.

: Steel flares for early cars were not available so some customizing was in order.

: It was easier to make it in two pieces so the fit would be right on.

: Once in place, the rest could be fabricated.

: Everything tacked in place.

: It is starting to look like something.

: More of the quarter gets cut away than you expect.

: It all looks good once it is in place.

: The flares really fit the body line quite well.

: Masked off for media blasting. The plastic media gets everywhere. Be sure to plug heater vents and any cavities that are exposed.

: After blasting there is no damage lurking underneath.

: This is the dash the way it was with the exception of the large red oil light.

: Ready for paint.

: This is my favorite part of the process.

: The entire body is color sanded and polished.

: Everything was undercoated as needed. Some was cosmetic to freshen it up.

: Polished and fenders on.

: Here a coating of chip protection is sprayed on.

: Back home and ready for assembly.

: The reflection is like a mirror.

: The steel trailing arms were replaced with later aluminum ones.

: The Koni’s that the car came with were used at first along with a Tarret adjustable sway bar and four piston calipers.

: The struts were switched to Bilsteins. The spindles were raised along with a proper bump steer setup.

: A Smart Racing dual master cylinder setup was fit along with a later style pedal cluster. It is tied into the strut bar for rigidity.

: Slow but sure. It took just over two years from the delivery date to its first official test drive.

: I opted for a 1988 3.2 liter motor and a 915 trans with a Quaife limited slip.

: With just a little clearance on the rear seat tunnel made for the transmission, it goes right in. It sure would have been nice to do this at the shop.

: These Recaro’s out of a 911S were literally a barn find. Adapters were made to fit an early car.

: Boxster material was used for the headliner.

: The interior is taking shape. I found a NOS speedometer and had the other gauges rebuilt.

: Here is the interior mostly as it is today. It has a hand made cherry wood insert. Notice how the grain continues all the way across.

: Due to limited 16″ tire choices, I went with 17″ BBS wheels

: There are more changes coming.

: Here is the car as it was finished.

Sep 13 2020

1967 Porsche 911

Author: Paintwerks

This car has been waiting to be restored for over ten years. It had previously been repaired with extensive use of fiberglass. The car has been completely stripped down with the wiring harness and steering gear being the only things left intact. When complete, it will have all matching body numbers with the exception of the left front fender. Sometimes there is just no getting around hitting a deer. The damage was exclusive to the fender only. No other repairs were needed. It will be done in Aga Blue as matched off of the dashboard near the factory marking of the body number.

(Click on any image below to view larger size.)

: This is the car as it sat for years. The blue trunk hood was scrapped due to the original being in very good shape after stripping.

: The car had been taken apart to a point years ago. We have been finding all of the parts so far.

: When the body is stripped, I then fit all of the body panels to see how they really fit. This taillight area had been pushed in about 12mm.

: The factory markings will remain intact. This is the only good section to get the color match from. It looks perfect.

: The whole corner of the light box had fiberglass all over it.

: It was rebuilt piece by piece.

: The rear parcel shelf is a very common area to need replacement. Sealant was not typically used when installing the windows and leaking was a common problem.

: Repairing this corner completes the repair for this side.

: This corner is an area that also suffers from water leaks. It can get underneath but not show up years. It is a joint that had been factory leaded and the lead does not rust. The rust has to work its way to the edge of the lead before it becomes apparent.

: All surfaces underneath are treated before a repair is done on top. The windows will be installed with sealant to help prevent future leaks.

: The body is cut away to get at the body on both sides to hammer it back into shape.

: The removed body section was reshaped and welded back in place. Additional pieces were made to complete the repair.

: The jack point/rocker panel is another common rust repair area. This area is open to the rear wheel well opening and subject to water and salt. It is also difficult to get undercoating all of the way in there.

: This replacement panel is zinc coated.

: The factory rear quarter panel ends right in the area that rusts out. A small section must be fabricated to join the new rocker panel to the rear quarter panel.

: This is also another area where lead was used. Very little body work is needed to finish this repair.

: After the rockers are done the floor can go in.

: After the rockers are done the floor can go in.

: After the rockers are done the floor can go in.

: Another place rust is generally found.

: This is the rear panel that helps hold debris coming off of the front tire. It cannot be up against the outside skin but must maintain a very tight profile as it can interfere with the body when mounted.

: All exterior metal work is butt welded.

: The welds are ground flush.

: This is the fender mounted back on the car. Looks good.

: Here the body is completely assembled. As you can see, the original trunk hood looks fine. Replacement H4 headlights are test fit with the gasket.

: The underside is painted and then undercoated.

: After finish body work, it’s time for some epoxy primer followed by high build primer and guide coat.

: The front fenders were sent out for chemical stripping and e-coating to protect the crevices from future corrosion.

: They are primed and guide coated to get them to the same point as the body.

: These are the seat pans, blasted and ready for paint. All aspects of the project are kept moving. Parts are out for chrome so everything can be assembled when the time comes.

: This is a perfect example of how the guide coat works in the blocking process. The panel is carefully blocked until all of the red guide coat is sanded away.

: Here is the result of the first blocking. The door on the left had to go down and expose a little epoxy primer to get it straight. Another high build primer will be applied for final blocking and wet sanding to insure a perfectly straight panel.

: The bumper deco’s are fit before the first block sanding. As you can see, they are not shaped correctly from the supplier.

: The fitting can be a tedious process. This needs to be done before finish paint or you will just scratch up your new paint. Now the parts can be finish sanded and painted.

: Here the car is remasked for final paint.

: The next day the body is completely color sanded to remove any orange peel.

: After color sanding, the body is remasked again and undercoated.

: The gas tank has been cleaned, pressure checked and coated. Fresh undercoating and gray paint finishes it off.

: The body is left color sanded for four weeks to let the paint thoroughly dry, then polished.Once polished, assembly can start. Sorting and checking the electrical system is the easiest when there is nothing else in the way. Sometimes new wires need to be run through the chassis.

: The front bumper is assembled and mounted in place.

: The Dynamat is installed in the back half. The vinyl interior panels have arrived along with the headliner. The carpet is on back order from Germany. The parcel shelf and side panels will be test fit before the carpet goes in.

: The rear bumpers are assembled and carefully bolted in place with the license plate panel and bumper guards.

: After waiting for parts, the suspension is done.

: The headliner is stretched in place and left like this for a week before gluing in place.

: The dash pad goes on before the gauges to give you access during the installation. The wiring and bulbs are checked at this stage

: Here the headliner has been glued.

: The steering wheel just came back from getting new walnut added. A complete test fit insures no complications later.

: The front piece with the storage pocket goes in ahead of the sill. The bound edge of the sill piece finishes off the seam between the two.

: With the side panels checked and removed, the carpet can be installed. All pieces must be laid out first to determine the order in which they must be installed.

: Once I have all of the main pieces in place, I work back to front installing the remaining pieces.

: The back is now complete. The seat belt anchor points are some of the details that were done in the fitting stage. At final assembly, it all just goes together. No cutting, drilling or welding to risk damaging the material.

: The door stay and latch mechanism’s are mounted before the door goes on. Dynamat will go on before assembly is complete.

: Like the other panels, the door cards were mounted first with the doors laying flat to insure a nice fit. After the window frame assembly is installed the door card goes on with ease.

: With the wheels refinished, the car is ready to go out for the engine and transmission.

: Over the winter the drive train will be installed. After test drives in spring, I will get it back to do final carpet details and to detail the body for the final time. It is due back here in spring. Stay tuned.

: Some final shots of the completed project.

: Some final shots of the completed project.

: A 911S looking motor built to different specs. The motor and transmission were not done by Paintwerks.

Sep 04 2020

1971 911T

Author: evh-admin

This car was purchased in 1987 as is and has only been repainted once. From Signal orange to black. It is time that it is going back to its original color. There is a lot of originality still with this car. We will try to blend the new paint with the original details where possible. Stay tuned.

(Click on any of the images to view larger images of the entire project.)

: This is how the car was purchased in 1987.

: The original condition of the inside of the door. We are going to retain this originality where possible.

: With a complete interior still in place, the windows are masked off for chemical stripping. Notice the original paint underneath.

: After sanding and polishing the original paint, we can see our paint sample is just about perfect.

: We start removing the rusted areas.

: The inner rocker and jack point will need rebuilding as well.

: The inner rocker and jack point will need rebuilding as well.

: The front suspension pan is a common rust area.

: The right rear bumper has damage and rust holes.

: A replacement will be sourced.

: The door is prepped to carefully pull out some dents.

: This shows what we had to start with.

: Here we have just a little more to go.

: After the replacement bumper is blasted, we find a perfect part. No rust, no dings.

: This insures a great fit and no scratches at assembly.

: The deco strips are fit prior to any painting.

: The hinge post panel is repaired on the bottom and the jack point is ready for welding.

: The entire side is fit together so each panel works with the next one. The bottom of the rear quarter panel is not in place yet.

: The fender, door, rocker panel and rear quarter are taking shape.

: Next, the gas tank support is fit and welded in place. The gas tank is also fit before final welding is done.

: Here the new front pan has been welded in place.

: Prepped and ready for the first round of primer. Wheel well details will also be painted at this time.

: This wheel arch had a solid coat of filler on it when we started. With some careful hammer work, only small details need to be filled.

: Overall, mostly small factory variations needed to be addressed on the body.

: While body panels are drying, small parts are painted and hardware is prepped for plating. Here the gas tank bottom is undercoated.

: After undercoating, it is epoxy primered and topcoated.

: The gauges are rebuilt with the original date code stamps preserved and ready to install.

: The first round of primer blocked out showing a very straight body.

: With the second round of primer blocked and wet sanded, the rockers are undercoated.

: With the rockers epoxy primed, the body is ready for color.

: It is time for clear.

: After 3 coats of clear, we let it dry one week before color sanding and more dry time.

: Most of the undercoating was very solid so most of the body received a fresh coat for appearance.

: The fenders are new so they got a solid coat of Wurth undercoating.

: With the dashboard in place, the restored gauges can now go in.

: It is interesting how different the color looks depending on how the lighting is hitting the surface.

: The back of the car is complete. The rest of the panels are polished and ready to go on the car.

: The body is assembled. Windows, door handles and latches need to go on along with new wheels and tires.

: A quick test drive. What a fun car!

Nov 01 2017

1970 Porsche 914-6

Author: Paintwerks

This car is here for some freshening up. The 30 year old paint still looks good but up close it is getting tired. It is a good time for going through it. Some of the problem areas were known and some new ones have been found.

: This is a nice starting point.

: This is the undented area of the drivers door. I counted eight layers with no green paint in between. The owner knew this door was worked on before. The paint thickness measured very well on the rest of the car, proving the two paint jobs that are on it.

: I started taking the dent out of the door before I took this picture. It was actually a little worse than this when I started.

: Continually working the door, top to bottom, left to right to get it as straight as possible.

: It is always very difficult to remove dents after someone else has tried to work on them.

: It has come along very well.

: The drivers front wheel well had been dented and rusted out.

: The rust removed.

: The process of building it back up.

: It is hard to get a good picture with the glare. A little finishing work and it will look great.

: This hole had body filler and cardboard in it.

: The same process is used to rebuild the area.

: This broken weld is the reason the passenger side has a sag in it. This will all be replaced.

: Rust has eaten the end of the interior cross bar.(In green)

: If you look closely, the seat belt mount has let go. The floor bottom on this side will be replaced with fabricated pieces.

: Trying to grind the paint away unveiled over 1/2 inch of filler creating the shape in the door sill.

: The backside didn’t look any better.

: After all of te bad metal was removed it was evident how much work the area needed.

: The car was sent out to 914 LTD for some specialized repairs.

: When it came back, I could rebuild the jamb and outer skin areas.

: The curve matches up to the template made off of the other side.

: A skim coat is all that will be needed to finish out the panel.

: I have used the two layers of paint to block the panels smooth.

: It is amazing how nice a panel looks until it is blocked. I was able to tap most of the low spots up so they cleaned up.

: Ready for primer.

: Four coats of primer for block sanding as well as wet sanding.

: Paint applied and the wheels back on, it is ready to spend some time drying.

: All the rest of the panels are painted green.

: The body has been wet sanded and ready for buffing.

: Over the existing sound deadening sheet, a thick product from Cascade Audio Engineering was glued in to reduce the noise coming through.

: The floor had two products applied. A thinner sheet similar in thickness to the common Dynamat products.

: The thick mat was then glued to the the first mat as recommended by CAE.

: The car is ready to go back for reassembly.

Sep 15 2017

1974 Porsche 914-6

Author: evh-admin

This is a great project as well. We are taking a solid 914 and combining it with an ’84 3.2 liter 911 Targa. Fabson Engineering is doing all of the mechanical work and upgrades in this swap. Steel GT flares are butt welded to the body as well as reshaping the steel bumpers to work better with the fiberglass valances and provide proper crash protection. Fiberglass bumper tops have also been sourced to eliminate the wavy look of the stock rubber tops. The front bumper has also been altered to accommodate an oil cooler ducted through the front trunk. There will be numerous small custom details done as we move through the process.

This is sure to be a fun car to drive when completed.

(Click on any image below to view larger size.)

: Here we are preparing to fit both flares to the rocker panels.

: Here is one of the small issues that was found.

: The area is cut away until there is good metal.

: The area is prepared for some replacement sheet metal.

: The metal is formed to fit. The two oval holes are where the oil cooler lines will run to go to the front of the car.

: A patch is made to fit.

: The fit after trimming.

: A line of tape is laid out to define where the bumper top will be trimmed to.

: This is the fit at the front before welding.

: The front flare fastened in place. Notice how it compares to the stock opening.

: Cutting the body away to start welding the flare on.

: The front valance fits great.

: The stock steel bumper is altered to create an opening that matches the lower valance for the oil cooler.

: The finished metal work.

: This shot shows how the flare compares to the original wheel opening.

: The rear flare and lower valance fit is checked throughout the welding process.

: A little more work and it will be perfect.

: This is one of four pieces per side that were added to reinforce the rear of the car.

: This illustrates how poorly the fiberglass rocker panels are made.

: The body is trimmed one section at a time and tack welded in place. Hammer and dolly work is done throughout this process.

: Here the flares are TIG welded together and the welds are ground smooth.

: With some blue fine line tape as a guide, the fender edge is trimmed as the final part of adding flares.

: After evaluating the door fit, it was determined that someone put body filler on that was not needed. This is more common than you think. After some sanding and checking, we are on our way.

: The collapsible spare from the 911 donor car provides plenty of clearance for the oil cooler shroud to be placed in front.

: This is a very simple way to relocate the spare tire. Rubber pads will be glued to the back wall after painting.

: At the same time as the priming process is being done, the inner wheel wells are epoxied and topcoated.

: The flares are painted with epoxy and high build primers.

: The painting process begins. The first round is all of the bumper pieces and rockers. The rockers got an application of chip guard before color was applied.

: Targa top, trunk and engine lids are next with everything being color sanded the next day.

: With the wiring harness still in the car, special care is taken to mask it and hold it out of the way.

: The bottom is covered in undercoating to make it a uniform surface.

: The same treatment is done in the rear trunk.

: Two good coats of epoxy primer are applied.

: The yellow is applied with a single stage paint with flattener added to reduce the number of coats needed to achieve the desired look.

: After the body is finish sanded and remasked, the base/clear finish is applied.

: After polishing, it is re-assembled.

: The car is now ready to go out and get the new drive train. It will come back for carpet, trim and finishing touches. It is due back here in spring. Stay tuned.