This car will be going back to its original silver color. We will be making a few changes along the way, but nothing that can not be easily put back to stock.
Aside from the front fenders, the car looks good from here. After disassembly and stripping we will see just what we have.
The unique ’72 only oil door. The gap on this is larger than the fuel door. This is how it left the factory.
The front fenders and front bumper are trashed. New ones will be sourced and fit to the body.
Silicone sealant was used to seal the joint from the inside of the fender. Water then came down through the top side and puddled in the seam causing it all to rust.
Both fender joining panels have rust holes and will be replaced.
Initially this side of the front window channel looked better. It was a previous repair that was hiding its real condition.
This is the front window corner. It is common to see at least some degree of rust here. This is a little worse than some. A repair panel will be bought to help facilitate this repair. The wires for the sunroof run through this area so they had to be fished back through here before any welding begins.
I cut away metal until I find something solid to work with.
The structure underneath is made and coated with a copper weld-thru primer.
This small section was cut from a larger replacement panel. It fits in pretty well. After wleding, the sunroof wires are then pulled back through and tested.
This is the largest patch on the car. We will remove this and make an appropriate panel section and butt weld it in.
The parcel shelf is interesting. Usually the window leaks, water collects in the upholstery and rusts out the panel. Look at the window channel and you will see no rust whatsoever. Where did all of the water come from? As a result of all of the water, one seat bottom is a little rusty requiring some repair.
After all of the spot welds are drilled out, it comes out in one piece.
The new one should fit right in.
The replacement panel did fit in pretty well. Great care must be taken before any final welding to insure the engine hood hinge mounts are in the right place.
The final sheet metal sections were formed in two pieces and spot welded in place.
The hydraulic support mount and hinge mounts are used from the original parcel shelf.
This shows the lip that holds the front seal. This is the easiest piece on the car to replace.
Except for the 50 spot welds that were put in.
The new strip is in place.
The right heater control valve is rusted out. As you can see, the left one is missing altogether.
This is the right rear seat area. The rust is mostly in the backrest area. A full replacement panel will not be needed. This section can be repaired with just a few fabricated panels.
The trunk lid had a lot of body filler on it. After stripping, it shows just a few holes to be welded closed and very minimal filler will be needed for some deep sanding scratches. Excessive filler from past repairs seems to be very common.
The area for the hood buffer is the only rusted area.
I had the perfect piece from another donor hood.
The front suspension pan is always the first thing to go.
The main pan is trimmed to fit and welded in.
Here the gas tank support is laid in place to check the fit before the structure underneath is rebuilt.
This area becomes a boxed structure underneath the gas tank support. Both sides needed to be rebuilt.
Both sides are done and waiting for the gas tank support panel.
This goes through to the inside of the smugglers box.
It becomes a fairly large hole before good metal is found.
Forming two pieces of steel repairs the hole nicely.
The drivers side quarter has a strange repair on it.
I can not figure out what could have happened. We will cut out all of the deformed metal and butt weld a panel in.
Many 911’s have had some one jack them up in the wrong spot.
With the outer rocker removed, you can see how well the jack point has been preserved. Only a few very small holes were in the bottom. Much larger areas have been cut away to insure only good metal remains.
With the pinch weld straightened, the multiple layers have been replaced to be good as new.
This area of the replacement engine hood was bent a little. It is easier to remove it and bend it into shape, then weld it back in. It is hard to see how bad it is.
After hammer and dollie work, it is easier to see the straight lines around the light area.
The pedal cluster area was rusty but very few tiny holes.
I used a new floor section to make it 100% solid again.
With the pedal support plate on underneath, it is ready for seam sealing.
This is the drivers side jack point after removing the rusted areas.
Here the floor pan and pinch weld areas are redone.
Here the jack point is in place along with the chassis support to the right.
Because this supplier has vastly improved their rocker panel stamping, it is easier to replace the whole panel compared to past pieces that were available.
This area on the passemger side was bad behind the rocker even though the rocker looked ok.
A hinge post bottom was made to replace the rusted section. This time it was more cost effective than buying a replacement part.
The next two pictures show some of the fit issues with new replacement parts. This is better than eliminating and repairing rust, but they do not bolt right on.
This problem was easier to fix than some. In the end I got it to fit just fine. The other side needed a lot more work to line up.
The joining panel must be in just the right place both up and down as well as forward and back.
With the joining panel in the correct position, the door gap looks great. With the door fit to the body, the fender fit to the body, door and trunk lid, the rocker panel can now go on to fit the body, door and fender.
The fender is not bolted in its final position on the bottom but it will line up perfectly.
The fender edge was not straight from the manufacturer. After I cut and moved it, I now have a proper panel gap. The headlights are also fit at this stage to get them to seat properly.
The fender sits high here. This is the last area to be modified to fit.
The fender had to be cut to lower the top surface down closer to the body.
The body then needed metal to be added to bring it the rest of the way up to meet the fender.
The passenger side only needed the fender to come down.
Metal was added to both surfaces to get the gap size and shape correct.
The rubber seal must be used throughout the fitting process because it affects the door gap.
This is the stock gas door fit. With everything in black, the camera does not show just how bad it fits.
This is the lower gap. Too big to let it go.
The gap to the left is good.
The gap to the right is good.
The top gap is also too big.
This shows the best fit I could get in stock form.
Apparently this is hand done. This too will be corrected.
A rod was welded on the areas needing more material. It was then ground to suit. Once again the camera does not show quite how good it is now.
The bottom gap.
The top gap.
Before each rocker panel goes on, it is painted on the inside of the replacement panel and the body. The gold color is a weld through primer. After final paint. this cavity will get sprayed with another round of corrsion protection with a special spray nozzle.
With the drivers side rocker panel in place, the rear quarter needs to be attached.
First the curve to match the door is made. The rust at the very bottom of the quarter panel will be repaired at this time too.
After matching the curve of the body, the repair panel cut be cut to size.
Cut the old metal away and weld in the new piece.
The fenders now fit the body and the door very well.
The door has been tweeked to fit the quarter perfectly.
The passenger side fit.
The rocker work is done with the door untouched from original. This way everything is fit together as it should be.
A look at the body lines from the rear.
First the taillight support is mocked up. The taillight is fit throughout the process to be sure everything fits and looks correct.
All pieces are only tacked in place for easy removal if needed.
The new panel butt welded in place.
Some fitting and finishing are needed yet but it is starting to look like new.
This is where there was a big ugly patch. It was hammered down too far with no way to hammer it back up. A larger section was cut out to get to clean straight metal.
It really matches the shape very well.
A little hammer work and it is ready for finishing.
The factory oil fill door has a larger gap around it than the fuel door. It will not be altered. This is factory correct. It is also some aluminum alloy. If allowed to swing open when released, the hinge has a tendency to break. This has been beautifully welded by a tool welding specialist.
This door fits very well. A small shim was added to make it fit perfectly.
Even though the bumper is new, it must be test fitted. Just some small alterations are needed. Note how the fitting is done with a rubber gasket in place to be sure we are in the ballpark.
The exhaust opening in the rear bumper was clearly modified. Fortunately the right side was still in place.
First metal was added to close the opening.
Then it is cut to size.
The inside lip is added and ground to size. The other bumper on the table was used as a pattern.
Stainless steel oil tubes were made to replace the rusted out steel ones.
The “S” trim is fit before any priming is done.
A little clearance is added.
The reproduction bumper trim fits terrible so these originals are sanded and polished back to life.
There are still some tiny marks in them but you must look very close.
I never get tired of seeing a project go into primer.
The steering rack is in good shape. It just needed new turbo tie rods and boots and it is ready to install.
While in primer, the deco fit is checked. Fits great!!
Careful masking is required when components are left intact. It is also required to prevent overspray from getting everywhere.
Undercoating is done to blend in the repaired areas.
Everything is epoxied and painted.
With this picture I am trying to show how fine the metallic is in this silver. It looks very original.
All the major panels are done at once. The engine lid was laid flat for the final color coats to insure the color laid the same as adjacent panels when mounted on the body.
Gun settings, temperature and humidity are all noted to insure consistency.
Before polishing, bumpers and fenders are masked off for undercoating.
After the undercoating is dry, epoxy primer and color are sprayed to give it an original look.
While the paint is drying, subassemblies are worked on.
Disassembled, blasted and reassembled. Ready to to be installed.
After sanding with 2000 grit, a 3 step polishing process is done.
With satin black on the letters, they are ready to go on.
Almost ready to assemble. With a few more parts and freshly plated fasteners, we are ready to install.
The front rubber bushings are replaced with Elephant Racing spherical bushings. No play and completely free movement.
With the suspension mounted, the front fenders can go on.
The headliner went in flawlessly.
From every angle it is perfect.
With the fenders on, it starts to look like a car again.
The rear suspension is on, parking brake adjusted and heater valves operational.
With a new wiring harness for the engine lid made, the hood can go on.
After the Dynamat, the interior can start going in.
The dash material has been replaced and knee pad installed. The key surround will be cleaned up or replaced as well.
The aluminum plate was removed to prevent it from rubbing on the knee pad as it came from the factory.
The speaker, dash pad and gauges are ready to go. All of the gauge lights have been replaced with LED bulbs.
With the trunk lid mounted, the car really takes shape.
The interior is done for now.
After the windows are installed, the seats and carpets will go in.
After the shift housing is ready and the shift rod bushing is replaced, it will be installed and the carpet glued in.
With the gas tank in, the trunk is done.
A new set of perlon carpet and it looks like new.
With the back window in, the rear seats are finished along with new seat belts.
With the glass and rear seats done, the front seats, belts and steering wheel can go in.
The engine bay, waiting for the motor to go in.
The back comes together with the bumpers, guards and license plate panel on.
At this time it is ready to go get the engine.
When it returns with the engine, the rocker trim and door panels will go on. Then it is time to drive it.