1965 911 Archives - Paintwerks, LLC.

This is a shop project that will take some time to complete. This will be done between all of the client cars that are lined up. As you will see, this car will be done as accurate as I can do it. The one exception is that the current plan is to keep the 1967 S motor that was in it sometime before 1980. It is a complete running motor. I spoke with the owner who bought it off of a corner car lot in Boulder Co. in 1980. It was still in its original blue paint. It remained in his circle of family and friends until about 2008 when it was sold to a local collector. The condition it was in at that time is the same as when I bought it. Most of the original parts were still with the car. Otherwise I am finding NOS or excellent used pieces.

Follow all of the details in the captions for each picture. Original paint matching is being done on every possible detail. My paint supplier loves to see me walk in with yet another special request.

If you are reading this and have any parts that are unique to these early cars, please contact me to discuss them. There are some parts that are almost impossible to find. Any help is appreciated.

(Click on any of the images to view larger images of the entire project.)

: This is the first time I saw it.

: Five days later it wasn’t for sale.

: About 1 1/2 years later, after constantly reminding the seller I wanted it. It came up for sale.

: I tested it for strength right away.

: Not a creak out of either side.

: Original parking brake and shift boot. I am consistently working them. They are getting nice and soft now.

: Original blue paint found on the door jamb for color matching.

: This is the only foolish thing found on the car. A speaker hole in the rear wheel well.

: The ID plate was never removed.

: After complete disassembly, fitting panels was next. A paint gauge was used to be sure we weren’t looking at large amounts of body filler.

: Initial fitting was done with paint on most panels due to the time between work sessions on it. No need to let it rust.

: All small parts are used as fill in jobs during the process.

: The wire conduit was just hanging when I got it.

: The original tube was still very usable.

: The repair was made in about 5 pieces.

: The doors and trunk lid were stripped and e-coated.

: Mocking up the front end. A new bumper and fenders were sourced from Porsche. The rust and damage was too extensive to be worth repairing.

: Now the whole body was chemically stripped.

: Overall I am happy with how solid it is. Metal repairs were needed but nothing like others I’ve done.

: The usual front suspension pan repair was needed.

: A few small areas in the floor.

: More time was spent with a hammer and dollie on the floor to remove dents.

: This jack tube was removed to make it look right. It was plenty strong.

: Another of the common areas of concern. Much easier repair than a whole floor.

: I always find it interesting that one side can be rock solid and the other one is rusty.

: The drivers side looks like new.

: After metal work was completed, it went back for E-coating.

: The seam for the rocker panel is at the top of the outside surface to keep the original top panel of the rocker. Reproductions are good, but they are not the same. We try to keep every detail we can.

: It is in the first round of primer. It will come back in 5-6 months when there may be some more time for it.

: Pain staking paint mixing to get just the right color with a mat finish. This picture is with a flash.

: Without a flash. The color is different if it has a gloss finish.

: Paint was mixed just for the wiper rods. The frame was a combination of two silvers to get the color right.

: Metal parts were blasted, tumbled, Zinc coated and a direct to metal clear for very long term protection.

: The original tank was chemically stripped and the dents in the bottom worked out as possible. It came out very good. Original paint was matched before chemically stripping and sealing it. After additional detail work, it is primed and painted.

: It is finally in its original Golf Blue. It hasn’t been this color since somewhere in the late 80’s.

: After a week of drying, it is masked and undercoated all over. The undercoating is painted to make it easier to keep clean.

: Now it has been wetsanded with the first two grits in the sanding process. After at least 3-4 weeks of drying, it will get two more rounds of sanding and a three step polishing process.

: This is the glove box door. The original blue can be seen under the black. The bodies were painted in color and then they went back and did the black as needed.

: Only the early cars have this area blacked out. Into ’67 somewhere. And even then it could be hit or miss with different/darker colors. There was no clear pattern as time went on.

: After weeks of drying, two more rounds of sanding and it is ready for polishing.

: It polished very well. I think it is a grerat color.

: Assembly starts with the wiring.

: After all of the work to make the wiper system perfect, it will virtually never be seen again.

: The view before the dash pad goes on.

: The steering rack is prepped to go in.

: A complete rebuild of the calipers.

: Ready to install.

: The front suspension is in. Many people paint the struts Koni orange but Koni’s were not available in ’65 for 911’s. Boge and the part numbers are also stamped right on them.

: The original dashpad just came back. It’s beautiful.

: Excellent detail.

: Everything with a date code has been checked and documented.

: With the suspension done, the body can be assembled.

: It starts to look like a car again.

: This is a sound deadening and heat reflecting pad from Cascade Audio Engineering. It will work much better than the 3/4″ foam pad that was there.